Creates recipes with David Tanis in Los Angeles

David Tanis has an armchair approach to talking about cooking that allows you to feel as if your best friend is slicing vegetables and chopped herbs right next to you.

Recently, he did just that with me, first at the Hollywood Farmers Market to shop for products and then back in The Times’ new test kitchen, where he made three dishes with what he found on the market, each emblematic of his simple, reverent cooking style.

Persimmon and pomegranate salad with bitter lettuce
“This salad has a good combination of sweet and bitter, my favorite flavor composition. The proportions of the salad are what you want, so if you like more or less of one fruit or salad, then do so. You can also use any kind of citrus here; whatever you have on hand. If you do not have lettuce, the fruit is a good salad in itself with the addition of a few mint leaves. It would also be great with some cut fennel. “

Olive oil is added to a pomegranate and persimmon salad with lettuce.

Chef and author David Tanis adds olive oil to a pomegranate and persimmon salad with Treviso and Castelfranco salad.

(Myung J. Chun / Los Angeles Times)

Peel 3 ripe Fuyu persimmons, then cut them in half. Cut each half lengthwise into ¼-inch thick slices. Add them to a large bowl, then cut up 2 medium-sized pomegranates and take out the arils and let them fall over the persimmons. Season the fruit with salt and pepper, then squeeze the juice of 1 large Meyer lemon over. Drizzle a few tablespoons of olive oil over, then use your hands to toss it all together until the fruit is well dressed. Pick the leaves from 1 head of Treviso or radicchio and the tender inner leaves from 1 head Castelfranco salad apart and add them to the bowl. Gently pull the leaves through the juice of the fruit and the vinaigrette. Taste for more spice and server.

Radish salad with lime and parmesan
“It’s nice to make salads from things you would not normally want, like this one, which is mostly radishes. If I were to make this without greens, I would just pour some sour cream over. Black radishes in thin slices with sour cream and salt are so tasty. Think of a salad that way: a kind of spicy and clothed plant material. This is great on its own or served with a piece of fried chicken. “

Cheese is cut into slices to be added to a salad.

Chef and author David Tanis adds parmesan cheese to a salad made with radish and arugula.

(Myung J. Chun / Los Angeles Times)

Peel and cut 2 medium-sized radishes into thin slices, such as watermelon or other sweet varieties, and then place them in a large bowl. Season the slices with salt and pepper, then drizzle with a few tablespoons of olive oil. Using a vegetable peeler, remove the peel from 1 large lime into strips, then chop the peel very finely. (Alternatively, you can use a microplane to tear the shell from the glue finely.) Distribute the glue shell evenly over the radishes. Cut the glue in half and squeeze its juice over the slices as well. Discard the radishes so that they are evenly covered with the dressing. Add the trimmed leaves from 1 bunch of ripe arugula and flip them with the radishes and dressing until well covered. Use a vegetable peeler to remove large chips from a wedge of parmesan and let them fall over the top of the salad until evenly covered before serving.

King oysters and wood ear mushrooms with coriander parsley
The counterplay between the meaty king oyster mushrooms and the thin, crispy wooden ear mushrooms makes it an exciting dish. A simple parsley, traditionally a mixture of chopped parsley and garlic, is made here with coriander and livens up the solid mushrooms. Serve this alone as a vegetarian main course or as an accompaniment to chops or roast beef or game. ”

A mushroom salad in a bowl.

Chef and author David Tanis’ king oyster mushrooms and ear mushroom salad.

(Myung J. Chun / Los Angeles Times)

Cut any tough or dried bottom from 6 large king oyster mushrooms, then use a cutting knife or vegetable peeler to remove the bottom inch of the outer skin from the stems if you like. Cut the king oyster mushrooms lengthwise into ¼ empty thick slices.

If you use a grill, you should brush the oyster mushroom slices with olive oil. If using a frying pan, heat a thin film of olive oil in the bottom of a large frying pan over medium-high heat. Add the slices to the frying pan (or to a hot grill), season with salt and pepper and cook, turning halfway until deep golden brown all over, 2 to 4 minutes. Transfer the slices to a plate and remove from the heat.

While the mushrooms are boiling, make the parsley. Grate 2 to 3 sprigs of coriander leaves and soft stems of a bunch and place them on a cutting board. Place 2 peeled garlic cloves on coriander and chop the two together.

Put the frying pan back on medium heat and add a few tablespoons of olive oil. Add 1 cup fresh ear mushrooms, season with salt and sprinkle over the parsley. Cook, turning often, just until mushrooms are hot and garlic is no longer raw, 30 to 60 seconds. Spread the ear mushrooms over the oyster mushroom slices, and top with several fresh coriander leaves for serving.

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