In 2011, at 41 years old, I retired early from my legal career. My wife Noki left her nursing job a few years later, and we enjoyed a peaceful retirement in Washington, DC
But in 2015, a family vacation to Lisbon, Portugal changed everything. We immediately fell in love with the city and decided to move there. So we rented out our DC home and bought a two-bedroom, 1,300 square-foot apartment in Lisbon for $534,000.
It has been seven years since we relocated, and we have no plans to leave any time soon. The best part is that it’s pretty affordable to live here. The cost of living in Portugal is generally considered 46% cheaper than in the US
Here’s a look at how I spend my time as a retiree:
Always learning something new
My days typically begin with some investment research and writing projects, and end with immersing myself in Portuguese culture.
Lisbon offers many reasonably-priced learning opportunities. A 30-class program in intensive Portuguese, for example, costs 190 euros at the Portuguese Connection Language School, which is right up the street from us.
When our 17-year-old daughter Evelyn isn’t in school, she takes singing and bass lessons for 21.75 euros per class, and plays tennis for 27 euros per one-on-one session. Noki recently took a three-day ceramics class for 90 euros.
Hiking in the mountains of Sintra
A 20-minute drive from Lisbon’s bustling city center will bring you to the sparsely visited hiking trails in the mountains of Sintra, a town located high above Portugal’s coastline.
Parking is free at the Peninha Sanctuary, an abandoned chapel that looks out over the ocean and rolling countryside, so I park there and take the downhill trails towards the forest.
Lunch at the Mercado do Campo do Ourique
For fresh produce, fish and meat, it’s hard to beat grocery shopping at the Mercado de Campo de Ourique food market.
I frequently stop by for an exceptional lunch at Noori, my favorite sushi kiosk, paired with a glass of Portuguese white wine from a wine bar called Garrafeira.
Coffee break at Bettina Corallo Café
Bettina Corallo specializes in two things: espresso made from store-roasted beans and artisanal chocolates.
For 9.75 euros, we can buy 100 grams of 70% pure chocolate flavored with pepper and salt.
We also like to indulge in the cafe’s 3 euro cappuccino and 1.2 euro espresso shot, prepared on a La Marzocco espresso machine.
Exploring Portugal’s beaches
Along Portugal’s extensive coastline on either side of Lisbon, you can find sandy beaches and rocky oceanside cliffs.
I love going to Guincho Beach, located roughly 30 minutes outside of downtown Lisbon. If I’m not swimming, you can find me hiking, picnicking or photographing wildlife.
Exploring Lisbon’s historic center
Day or night, downtown Lisbon is an active city with plenty of ambiance to soak in.
My walk starts at the waterfront, then over the hills of Lisbon, and ends in the historic neighborhood of Principe Real — home to a hilltop park, botanical garden and some of the finest restaurants in the city.
We’ll sometimes go to A Cevicharia, which serves Peruvian-influenced ceviche made from freshly caught fish. Or we’ll eat at Tapisco, a classic Portuguese restaurant with dishes like Bacalhau à Brás, a traditional preparation of cod, potatoes and eggs.
Shopping at the farmers’ market in Príncipe Real
Príncipe Real is an upscale area known for its lively bars and fashionable shops. There is also a farmers’ market every Saturday, where you’ll find organic vegetables, artisanal olive oil, local honey, cheeses, dried fruits and homemade pickles.
Prices tend to be very reasonable. You can pick up a bag of fresh Algarve-grown lemons for 2 euros or a bottle of buttery olive oil for 8.50 euros.
Fresh bread at Marquise’s in-house bakery
Marquise is a fantastic bakery located near the national assembly building. I try to go in the mornings at 9:00 am, when it opens and everything is warm and fresh.
Breads are baked on-site every day with heirloom Portuguese flour. You can’t visit without tasting the Portuguese Barbela classic loaf.
Drinks at Pavilhão Chinês in Bairro Alto
My favorite indulgence spot in Lisbon is Pavilhão Chinês, or The China Pavilion, a timeless speakeasy located behind an unassuming red door.
My go-to cocktail is a Manhattan, which costs 12 euros. And the decor is anything but traditional; eclectic objects adorn every inch of the space.
You’ll often find me in the bar’s billiards room.
Relaxing at home
Sometimes I’m just at home relaxing with family. Many nights, Noki and I will head to the communal garden in our apartment complex to share a glass of wine.
As we enjoy the cool breezes and watch the sun set, I am always reminded of how blessed and fortunate we are.
Alex Trias is a retired attorney. He and his wife and daughter have been living in Portugal since 2015. He is the author of the “Investment Pancake” series on SeekingAlpha.com and has published nearly 500 articles about tax planning, investing, early retirement, and where to find the best meals in Lisbon.
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